Namaste!

Namaste (Hello in Hindi) from India! There is been much going on since last I wrote and I will try in hit the highlights. India is like Brazil and the U.S.; they are such large countries with diversity at every point so it is worth multiple trips in order to experience them in full. This was a relatively quick trip with tons of work to do so I didn't do much site seeing but I fully enjoyed all that I was able to do. Here in India they work on Saturdays, so their weekend is pretty much one day--and we were complaining about how short the 2 day weekend was. To set you up for the following highlights, part of my work was in Bangalore for 3 days; there was a road trip to the field site in Palamaner about 2 1/2 to 3 hours away; I returned to Bangalore for about 3-4 days to finish my work. My Sundays here are my free days. Next go round, I must take leave and see the Taj Mahal and other sights--maybe the coast where there is a city that is all pink--I've seen pictures and it's cool. You already received a tidbit of my first few days in Bangalore, but that Sunday I was intent on viewing my surroundings and conducting the majority of my shopping. I took a walk around the St. John's campus where there are deer and a bird sanctuary. Later, it was told that there were other guests that I could join for a city sightseeing trip and I decided to tag along--low and behold they were students from Alcorn State University (a fellow HBCU like FAMU my wonderful Alma mater) in Mississippi and quite colorful characters. It threw me off a bit to have the southern accents in the midst of Indian culture, but there commentary during our drive was hilarious.

Driving here is more hectic and you feel you life is on the brink every time. It was told to me that there are very few accidents--and I pray that is so. There is constant passing, constant braking, many cross overs and cut offs, cars coming dead on, and near misses. Trust me, it is wild and not much better on the highways. It is comforting to note that the big trucks and buses are bullies here as well.

During our sightseeing tour, we went to a very large Krishna Temple (Hindu). They say that the richest temple in the world is in India that beats out the Vatican in the amount of wealth it holds. The devotees and priest in the temple do get married which is different than Catholicism. I only mention this because there was a hot Hindu Priest saying prayers (no photographs were allowed, sorry) In India, the majority religion is Hindu, followed by Islam (13-14%), followed by Christianity (2%) although I saw many Christian churches and met quite a few Christians during my stay. There was a market with various religious artifacts and sweets. India does not feel as dense as China although it has a very high population that I believe is second to China. In China you felt overwhelmed by the number of people, I did not feel so where I was in Bangalore although it might feel this way in other cities in the country.

We went to the State House and High Court buildings as well and then went to do some shopping. If you come to Bangalore, you can go to FabIndia which is overpriced and a little snooty, or you can wade through traffic and people and head to commercial street which has better deals and you can barter. Now on to Palamaner. It was like going to my great grandmother's house in the rural area outside of Shreveport Louisiana. The staff at the site work in the area all week and then return to Bangalore on Saturday afternoon to have fun with friends in the city. As you can imagine, there is not much happenings for young people. There is definitely a certain peacefulness and refreshing you obtain in the countryside with the breezes and fresh produce that abound. Also, everyone has a cow. There are many foods here that I have never tasted or heard of like drumstick and jack fruit (there are others but I will not attempt to spell). The food is spicy (they use chili peppers a lot)and amazing and better yet home cooked. I am learning to eat with my fingers and it is quite fun. They eat rice and curd (yogurt basically) with every meal. There is very little cheese in their dishes--I have only seen a cottage cheese in spinach. There are mangoes and papayas and coconuts galore. There is the nan, chapati, and other breads. They share a lot of what they have and make guest feel like royalty. Mothers serve everyone at the table before they will eat themselves. They try and accommodate you any way they can and always willing to show you the way. Note to visitors--don't keep saying "thank you", once upon leaving is enough. It was said that "thank you" is used in formal occasions or when you interact with a stranger so that if you keep saying "thank you" it make the other feel like they are distant from you or a stranger.

This is getting somewhat long so I will wrap it up and you can experience through the eye of photography (check out slide show). Some of the staff took me along for walks in the countryside and went for dinner and to see the town. The field site operates out of Emmaus Hospital that has treated leprosy for over 30 years and is quite established in the community. The native tongue of the area is Telegu. In Bangalore which is in the state of Kanataka, speaks Kanataka. Everyone speaks Hindi. Before I forget and leave Palamaner, I cannot forget to mention the monkeys for they will be quite offended. There are many of them and they are quite mischievous. Be careful with your bananas and other fruit for they will snatch right from your hand. I was working and heard quite a commotion--the darn little things had turned over a pot, was throwing pieces at a young woman and was chasing another! I will conclude my trip and write a bit more on my experiences--until then I hope all is vibrant and beautiful in your life as the color and people of India.

Was That A Yes

Hola Compadres! (Ok, I will figure out an Indian greeting soon.) I have made it out of the country through Terminal 5 at Heathrow into Bangalore India with no delays and no lost luggage. Quite an accomplishment if I do say so myself. Terminal 5 is quite lovely with high-end shopping although it takes as bit to get there from the other Terminals so beware that you don't mistakenly end up there--it's a long way back (45 min). I had the luxury of taking a two hour nap on the plush seating with other weary travellers. It's quite an extraordinary experience snoring and drooling among the masses.

Speaking of accomplishments a few sentences back and before I get into my first impressions of my current surroundings, I must inform you of the completion of the second running race of my entire life--the Zooma Women's Half-Marathon in Annapolis, Maryland, June 1, 2008. Again, I feel the need to provide you with proof and of course to brag a little:

Place--591 Number--1039 Split (5k mark)--39:24 Gun Time--3:07:04 Net-Time--3:04:45 Pace--14:06

After losing a day, the soles of my feet plopped down for the first time on Indian concrete. My first trip to India, layover in a new terminal, and arriving in a new airport of only 15 days at the breaking of a new day (4:15 a.m.)--sweet!

One of the first cultural differences one will notice besides the obvious garment and language differences is the way the affirmative is provided. We nod up and down to indicate agreement while they nod side to side but with a swerve--think of a fast Stevie Wonder, or a bobble head. This makes you wonder how we have come to express "yes" in the various cultures of the world. I will have to do some investigation and get back with you.

Lunch (yes there has been no sleep since I have arrived) was a journey into the tastes of south India. In the states, what we usually experience as Indian food is mostly from Northern India. One of the distinct foods of the south is a "dosa" which is a huge triangular rice patty filled with various treats such as cheese and masala. There is a lot of yogurt and chutney around as well. Etiquette-wise, one should eat with only one hand and the right hand at that. The food is quite spicy although they have not allowed me to taste the real hot stuff. In general, they spice their food about 4-fold higher than what we would think as spicy. I say bring it on. Next post-"American explodes from hot Indian experience."

Stay Tuned...

The journeys begin again in June so stay tuned. I will be headed to Bangalore, India, for a site visit and then from there to Philadelphia, PA, for a training. In mid-July, I will be flying to Kampala, Uganda for two weeks and am looking forward to seeing my old graduate advisor who moved her whole family to Uganda (husband and four sons). In August, I am looking forward to going back to Kenya and can hopefully fit in some additional site seeing. This is to just give you a taste so you don't forget to check out the blog. I haven't forgot and will keep you posted, but I figured my faithful readers did not need to hear of all my happening in the local area.

Although, I do want to inform you that I finished my first ever running race. It was a 10k (6.1 mile) run down Rockville Pike from Shady Grove Metro to White Flint Mall. It was a relatively easy race (so some say). My results are as follows:

Place--1231 Number--2500 Gun Time--1:18:34 Net Time--1:14:19 Pace--11:58

And here is the picture to prove it:

Kwaheri Tuonane

So my month long journey is coming to an end, and I must bid Kenya "Kwaheri Tuonane" (Swahili for "Goodbye" & "See you soon"). I definitely feel quite accomplished on varioius planes (no pun intended) and feel a richness in my life that comes so freely when you see other lands and interact with people from different backgrounds and cultures. Travelling no matter how short or how far is a curative against ennui. It is kind of hard to yawn when on the move.

Having stayed in Kisumu for almost two weeks and visited around the area, I feel the duty to give more positive coverage beyond the riots and the violence. Here are some of my highlights from my time here.

• In the Nandi Hills there are gorgeous tea estates and fields of sugar cane.

• The province of Karemo that encompasses Kisumu is home of the Luos (Odinga is a Luo) as well as other tribes like the Masai. It is also the tribe of Barack Obama. This area where we will conduct our TB studies is the area that Obama's Dad grew up. We to a trip out to Siaya (a township in Karemo) and I got to meet the Chiefs of the location (Kenya is organized such that you have the country--the province--the district--the location--the sublocations--the villages--the compounds--the individual). In addition, I visited Obama's grandmother's house and met a cousin (the grandmother was out and about). They said she has been getting so many visitors from media especially during Super Tuesday. Near by, the school that Obama's father attended was named after him during his visit. Interesting to note if Kenyans were allowed to vote in the U.S. elections, those that support Odinga would vote for Obama and those that side with Kibaki would vote for Clinton (there was actually a survey).
  

• Kisumu has the most bikers I have seen per capita. On the roads you have the bikes (boda bodas), the tuk tuks, the matatus (vans), fish trucks, other trucks, cars, cattle, goats, and pedestrians. They also drive on the wrong side of the road, but I think I will take a taxi in this instance instead of renting a car). On the news the other day, I say that the majority of traffic accidents in the world are in Africa. When you drive around, you can see why.



• People are so hosipitable. They are always saying "welcome" and "pleasure". They think nothing of inviting strangers for dinner and they always allow the guest to have the last bit of food. There is the feeling of community and the extended family beyond your immediate reach. I think Kenyans (at least one did) view Americans as selfish in many ways which although being wealthy in material things puts them in a place of a sort of poverty--poverty of the soul or spirit.



• I was taken out to a local hang out and had some of the best smoked chicken I think I have ever tasted, at least in a long time; although, the guy cooking was Ugandan.


• The internet was atrocious (maybe too strong, let's say "inconsistent"), but I guess sometimes one needs to slow down and take a break from the madness that is the net--a staple in the modern world.


• Do you know that men still have to pay dowry if they want to marry a woman (although it may not be practiced as much). There are still a few animals involved, but they have incorporated monetary forms of payment for some animal requirements.
  
• There are so many exotic birds and flowers to see. One bird is so loud and sounds like a child crying out.
  
• If from my treatise you feel the need to visit Kisumu, you will find yourself flying into the most minute airport you have ever seen. You may think you have arrived at someone's house. The baggage claim is the driveway next to the building. The entrance and security check are one and the same. You may question where you have arrive to, but don't be scared for you have reached Kisumu (a normally peaceful region with that one exception).

Next time I come I will try and do a little vacation before or after and go to Mombasa and Lamu (suggestion from a friend who says their is much fun there). I am in London and soon to reach home soil. Thank you for tuning in for this journey and I hope that you will continue on. There is a little rest for me for about a month or so, but I will still write here and there to keep you abreast of the plans and preparations. I would check biweekly though instead of weekly unless you want to peruse my lovely photos and informative lists. Will write soon my "rifiki" (friend).