Kwaheri Tuonane

So my month long journey is coming to an end, and I must bid Kenya "Kwaheri Tuonane" (Swahili for "Goodbye" & "See you soon"). I definitely feel quite accomplished on varioius planes (no pun intended) and feel a richness in my life that comes so freely when you see other lands and interact with people from different backgrounds and cultures. Travelling no matter how short or how far is a curative against ennui. It is kind of hard to yawn when on the move.

Having stayed in Kisumu for almost two weeks and visited around the area, I feel the duty to give more positive coverage beyond the riots and the violence. Here are some of my highlights from my time here.

• In the Nandi Hills there are gorgeous tea estates and fields of sugar cane.

• The province of Karemo that encompasses Kisumu is home of the Luos (Odinga is a Luo) as well as other tribes like the Masai. It is also the tribe of Barack Obama. This area where we will conduct our TB studies is the area that Obama's Dad grew up. We to a trip out to Siaya (a township in Karemo) and I got to meet the Chiefs of the location (Kenya is organized such that you have the country--the province--the district--the location--the sublocations--the villages--the compounds--the individual). In addition, I visited Obama's grandmother's house and met a cousin (the grandmother was out and about). They said she has been getting so many visitors from media especially during Super Tuesday. Near by, the school that Obama's father attended was named after him during his visit. Interesting to note if Kenyans were allowed to vote in the U.S. elections, those that support Odinga would vote for Obama and those that side with Kibaki would vote for Clinton (there was actually a survey).
  

• Kisumu has the most bikers I have seen per capita. On the roads you have the bikes (boda bodas), the tuk tuks, the matatus (vans), fish trucks, other trucks, cars, cattle, goats, and pedestrians. They also drive on the wrong side of the road, but I think I will take a taxi in this instance instead of renting a car). On the news the other day, I say that the majority of traffic accidents in the world are in Africa. When you drive around, you can see why.



• People are so hosipitable. They are always saying "welcome" and "pleasure". They think nothing of inviting strangers for dinner and they always allow the guest to have the last bit of food. There is the feeling of community and the extended family beyond your immediate reach. I think Kenyans (at least one did) view Americans as selfish in many ways which although being wealthy in material things puts them in a place of a sort of poverty--poverty of the soul or spirit.



• I was taken out to a local hang out and had some of the best smoked chicken I think I have ever tasted, at least in a long time; although, the guy cooking was Ugandan.


• The internet was atrocious (maybe too strong, let's say "inconsistent"), but I guess sometimes one needs to slow down and take a break from the madness that is the net--a staple in the modern world.


• Do you know that men still have to pay dowry if they want to marry a woman (although it may not be practiced as much). There are still a few animals involved, but they have incorporated monetary forms of payment for some animal requirements.
  
• There are so many exotic birds and flowers to see. One bird is so loud and sounds like a child crying out.
  
• If from my treatise you feel the need to visit Kisumu, you will find yourself flying into the most minute airport you have ever seen. You may think you have arrived at someone's house. The baggage claim is the driveway next to the building. The entrance and security check are one and the same. You may question where you have arrive to, but don't be scared for you have reached Kisumu (a normally peaceful region with that one exception).

Next time I come I will try and do a little vacation before or after and go to Mombasa and Lamu (suggestion from a friend who says their is much fun there). I am in London and soon to reach home soil. Thank you for tuning in for this journey and I hope that you will continue on. There is a little rest for me for about a month or so, but I will still write here and there to keep you abreast of the plans and preparations. I would check biweekly though instead of weekly unless you want to peruse my lovely photos and informative lists. Will write soon my "rifiki" (friend).

In The News

I feel like a blip in the Associated Press. Here I am in Kisumu, just in the spotlight as one of the locations of significant uprising and riots during the post-election violence. They say Kisumu was somewhat nicer before the riots which destroyed much of any beauty there was. Interestingly, yesterday there were threats of more riots because the two opposing parties couldn't agree about the number of cabinet ministers--why is compromise so hard?

Talking with the various residents you gain a lot of insight into the events and how it affected people’s lives.

• Many of the staff at the KEMRI/CDC during the day of initial shooting and rioting found their normal shuttle into town (about 5 km away) not in operation. They had to walk to town and by a different route than the main road.
  
• Residents were trapped in their homes for 7 days unprepared with essential needs like water and food while looters burned government buildings and blocked roads and sprayed bullets through town. Many other families fled to Nairobi (40 min flight).
  


• There was vandalizing of the water pipes and telephone lines. People had to buy bottled water and many have walk long distances to get water from Lake Victoria.


• One of the staff members shared that his brother was captured by the rioters which he found out on his way from fleeing town. He had to return and talk the ones he knew to let his brother go.


• Some knew of those that died; some knew of those that lost their homes having to stay with relatives until a new place could be found.

People always have the ability to find humor in the aftermath of crisis; I think it helps dissipate the fear and uneasiness that arises.

• There was jokes about the number of mediators that got turned down and one that came by plane from South Africa and got turned back with his head between his knees. Poor Kofi Annan, after garnering a deal, has every one calling him to work out their conflicts and problems.


• Zimbabwe's President is threatening people not to do a "Kenyan” and who knows that the riots didn't inspire Tibet.


• During the riot all the restaurants and pubs were closed, but one with the rioters passing by stopping for the chance to get a beer.

The business and life of Kisumu is returning to normal but there are many scars that are evident along the streets and in the minds of the people. In the midst of busy markets there is tentativeness, where you’re not quite sure if it is really all over.

There is suspicion and resentment underlying especially if one is considered sympathetic to Kibaki's party. This is an area that supported the opposition. The take of some people is that Kibaki's party was one keeping Kenya from progress and only building infrastructure in areas where they lived or had friends or ties. We traveled the roads from Kisumu to Eldoret to see a lab--the roads were absolutely terrible the entire way, like being on a wooden bumpy rollercoaster for 3 1/2 hours.

The government should be ashamed of themselves for having so many roads in such a state. Nairobi is 350 km away from Kisumu and it can take 7 hours to get there because the roads are so bad. One of my colleagues traveled on a road to a hospital where a government official lived and it was paved and smooth as ice.

I think history is showing that people have their limits and will take matters into their own hands in the face of oppression, corruption, and poverty when they have no hope of change from those in power. There has been revolutions and uprising on every continent (except Antarctica) since the beginning of human civilization as a means to effectuate change. It is not a means to an end that will go away any time soon.

Shifting Gears

It is very late at night and I am in the airport in Johannesburg ready to head off to Kenya. At the last minute I decided not to go home first and then come back to Kenya in five days--it was a wise move and I came within budget. My destination is Kisumu where some of the uprising and violence occurred during the unrest around the Kenyan elections. This segment of my trip has been very up in the air--"to go or not to go, that is the question". From those in the trenches, life is getting back to before and the agreement between the two opposing parties seems to be working. Stay posted for blogs from Kenya and pictures of course.

To wrap up my trip to South Africa, it was definitely overall positive and the collaborators I visit were wonderfully hospitable. Some additional highlights or commentary:

• Beach excursion to Hermanus and Hawston where the sky was clear blue, the mountains ever impressive, and the ocean ice cold! They say you must go further east for warmer waters.
  


• The town of Worcester felt very much like small town U.S.A. but not so friendly as Cape Town. I would go a little batty if I had to stay there too long, I would be in Cape Town at every chance. The people at the site were very nice, but the town inhabitants were not so inviting. It has the feel of being stuck back in time.

• It was my first time staying at a guest house/bed & breakfast and it was cozy and nice, but I think I might prefer hotels for having services and staff available at all hours.

• Olives farms and vineyards were everywhere creating beautiful countrysides--I absolutely love olives. I purchased some white truffle olive oil which has the taste of garlic. It was a good experience and I learned a lot about tasting olives like the experts.




• What would happen that I should meet a handsome Spaniard from Barcelona of all places!! He was in Worcester to visit the site (we quite bonded over a gastric lavage and induced sputum demonstration). He was a physician living in Mozambique and had been their 6 months. He is into infectious diseases and will be working with TB and many many children. In all of Mozambique, he said there are only 700 doctors! He deals daily with the complexity of treating children especially children with malnutrition, HIV, and TB. He might be one of our collaborators in the near future--road trip (plane trip may be more accurate)! But it will be only for work and scientific exchange for at last he has a girlfriend; although, it was such a treat to have a breakfast and dinner partner for a few days.

• The last day had much time to spare before my plane and went to the largest mall in all of Africa, Century City and got a massage and hair do--travelling can have its toll.

• Only bad incident and I am quite ashamed to share is that I scratched up my rental car--Wait! It is not as you suppose. I was superb driving on the wrong side of the road; it is always the parking that haunts me and those darn walls and pillars and narrow spaces. So sad! Thank goodness for insurance.

It looks like I am spending Easter away from home but it will be ok. I may be able to find a service at a local church. It appears around Africa they have a four day weekend which is quite nice. Well I hope you are gaining something from my updates and will continue with me as go here and there and everywhere.

Bubbles Bursting

Tears fall, lives speak
Prolific earth
Why do we not hear, why do we not see?
What is it we feel cold underneath our feet?
My heart o’ one
What heart o’ you
If you prick there we bleed
And one we are the same

Travelling you encounter so many images where there are smiles and fun encounters with local people and culture--the light and fuzzy moments to write home about and publish web albums about, reinforcing the bubble of our world. Now there are those that seek the experiences of the struggling and torn to aid and assist or just come to a greater sense of the position in life. If you ever have such experiences, the heart is usually pricked and emotions exude, although the duration of this social awareness is really dependent on the level of selfishness within. What the majority of sights of the dying souls do for us is increase our gratitude for what we are not and where we are not. It bursts our bubbles and gives us a different bird’s view of life. There is much value in this because we often shift how we approach our sphere of influence and may do better and treat others better.

The unfortunate value that does not usually result is significant action that effectuates change in circumstances of those who do not have and those that can’t see out of their troubled world. (Aside: The words I write, I feel and relate so I pass no judgment and may feel greater guilt.) What the haves often face is what to tackle out of all the opportunities for charity? The answer is always the same, work to uplift and build what is closet to your heart and work outward. It is the brick by brick, starfish by starfish, philosophy and it is sound.

I bring this up because I experience the above now and because in my life’s path I have had the privilege of having my bubbles burst on many occasions in many different places domestic and abroad to now there is no bubble and I am engaged with knowing humanity at every level and stage. I am not so courageous and enlightened because I just visit and do not live where there is no hope—the courage and strength go to those that stuggle yet survive and endure every day carrying out the normalities of life (family, meals, working, sleeping, etc) in the midst of abnormalities.

There are pictures to show and words to write to help give you a small understanding of such struggles. Presently, I am working with a site for my job located outside of Cape Town, South Africa, in the small town of Worcester. We have a study that is looking at the incidence of Tuberculosis (TB) in the region. TB is often referred to as the “poor man’s disease” because it finds ample means of transmission where there is overcrowded conditions and poor health. In addition, 50% of new cases of TB are in persons with HIV/AIDS, a disease ravaging Africa.

The area is gorgeous as is much of the land of Africa surrounded by mountains on every side. This is an area and country that knew the old regime of apartheid (a system of numerous laws that allowed the ruling white minority in South Africa to segregate, exploit and terrorize the vast majority: Africans, mostly, but also Asians and Coloureds - people of mixed race) which only moved out with the new regime (Nelson Mandela as president) in the early ‘90s. Only the new generation has a fresher view with lesser wounds but still issues remain.

The other day, I was allowed to shadow field workers from our studies as they visited the participants to follow-up on their child’s health and contact with TB. Our participants come from all walks of life but a good proportion come from the non-white communities. Many of the Black (Xhosa speaking) and Coloured (Afrikaans speaking--also spoken by whites) live in the same conditions lived under in apartheid. I saw much poverty in this rural region. There are those that have found new opportunity and hope with the new regime but there is such a vast number that are still in destitute circumstances. Having to walk or find transportation to work or hospitals or shopping are several kilometers away (talking over 3-5 miles at times). There are more "shebeens" (liquor stores) than clinics or food stores in the communities. There is a city dump maybe a few kilometers away from the Coloured community were many are seen walking to get their meal for the day.

The upper classes live near the resources in their communities with minority populations of Blacks and Coloureds; the Coloureds live a little farther from the resources in their communities with some Blacks; and the Blacks live farthest in their communities with no integration. There is alcohol abuse, teen pregnancy, crystal meth (“tik”) addictions, and little means to live. One of the workers mentioned that there seems more of a gap between the Coloureds and the Blacks after apartheid then before. When both were oppressed under the old regime, they had a unified enemy and with that lifted their differences seem more apparent which saddens her.

Many in the Worcester find work in the farms and vineyards (which are numerous). If they are lucky, they will have work for the entire year while others get only seasonal work and are unemployed for the rest of the year. The structures that some call home are indescribably (please see photos); these are the shanties. Some have no roofs, there is toilet water flowing in the streets (the same streets children play and people go about their day), and there are impassable roads. There are no heating and cooling systems and days can get so hot and nights can get so cold. There are bare feet on hard icy roads.

Pop! Pop! Pop! [the sound of bubbles bursting]