Steps in Place

Le Monde du Cameroun

2010-03-24T10:34:00.005-04:00

It has been a long while since my last post. Since then I have traveled to Mombasa in Kenya, The Netherlands, Tanzania and back to Uganda which I will provide highlights in another post. There has been a whirlwind of activity in my life from finding myself unemployed to finding myself self-employed. We shall see what the horizon holds for me but I am confident that it will be as blessed and enriching as what has thus occurred.

While visiting my aunt in Philadelphia, we discussed the present state of affairs and a few of desired aims of mine. As many of you may know, my path has had quite an international bias, but sadly I am unilingual only dappling in a little Portuguese and having forgotten the collegial classes in French and Spanish. Given this unfortunate fact and on the advice of my sage aunt, I decided to embark on a self-arranged immersion program for one month to jump-start me into becoming a bilinguist. My latest work and venture is concentrated in Sub-Saharan Africa which is primarily Anglophone and Francophone. Given that I would be hosted by a family, the trip would be more cost-effective in Africa, and I would be significantly immersed in French, I decided to that my program would be in Cameroun. Just a note, Cameroun is one of the only bilingual countries. It is the policy in the country that everyone learns both English and French; although there are definite and distinct French-speaking parts and English-speaking parts within the country. Where I would stay would be French-speaking.

My month long journey has come to an end but was worth the detour. I will try and present the highlights so this won’t become a small book and you will find a sprinkling of French so I can show off a little of my skills (although I have a long way to go).

French in Action

Before I arrived in Cameroun, I wanted to refresh my understanding of French and build some vocabulary, so I went through the BBC French Language lessons, bought some second hand French books, and downloaded free French software and podcasts. At this point after a month of butchering the language, I can read with understanding about 70%, can throw enough nouns, verbs and adjectives to be understood, and can really only understand about 30-40% of what I hear. I must admit that the hardest aspect grasp in this entire affair is hearing the language and conjugating those darn verbs. Other than this, I would be an expert French linguist.

My fellow French speakers have been quite understanding and also amused at my undertaking. What I have found is quite an appreciation for my attempts—I get about a 5 % boost just for trying. It is a shame that the majority of Americans only know one language which is increasingly becoming a handicap in the age of global commerce and collaboration. Once I feel more comfortable with French, I would like to see what I can do with Spanish and possibly Chinese (which seems the language of the business in the near future). Being able to communicate in a common language produces such comfort and opens the door for fruitful interaction and exchange. It is one of the most frustrating things in this world—that is to be misunderstood or not understood. I imagine it is the same frustration that causes a infant to cry to say that there is a need or a desire that they wish to communicate. There is great freedom with effective communication.

The People

Over the course of my stay, I travelled between Douala (the largest city) and Yaoundé (capital city) with my main host family residing in Douala which was the hottest place I’ve encountered. The family had 3 to 4 generations in one house which was a more of a small compound with the main house, a smaller house, and a grand house that was being built to accommodate multiple families. Just a note—women that are elder to you in the family are called Ta-Ta so-and-so except if they are your mother (un mere) or grand-mother (un grand-mère), and elder men in the family are called Ton-Ton so-and-so unless un père or un grand-père. Residing in the main house was Grand-mère, Ta-Ta Ida, the son of Ta-Ta Ida, and two young girls who were staying at the house to go to school and to help around the house. Initially, there was a young man Rodrigue who helped me with getting to places in the beginning and speaking the language. He was at the house briefly during his vacation from the university. There was another younger aunt Coulette who I didn’t have to call her Ta-Ta since she was about my age who had a young son and baby girl. There were several amazing aspects of my time here, but one aspect I found especially lovely—Coulette had a salon on the premises. She was really good and her prices were dirt cheap (given the exchange rate) so I was able to take full advantage of her services. Some very interesting things about family life:

It is nothing and actually common to take in other people’s children to help raise them and allow them to go to school.

Raising a child is really a family affair, and I saw this in action with the baby girl of Coulette. With the salon being quite busy and every growing (they made several modifications and upgrades while I was there), Coulette was able to leave her daughter comfortably in the hands of any family member. There was always someone around to watch one’s children (les enfants).

You can become very spoiled in Africa because you can find someone to do whatever you need for very inexpensive. Because work can be hard to come by, people are will to do just about anything to be able to sustain themselves and their family. You can get someone to go run and get airtime credit, change a light bulb, perform minor handy work around the house, etc., for just a couple of dollars. Also, having a housekeeper who works daily is quite inexpensive (less than $100 a month) and you will find them in most middle income families to higher income families.

The Food

Meals were quite regular with breakfast (le petit dejeuner), lunch (le dejeuner), and dinner (le dîner) all served like clockwork. Petit dejeuner consists of bread (pain), cheese (frommage), possibly some type of sausage (saucisson), tea (thé) or coffee (café), and sometimes eggs (les oeufs) or sardines. Fish (le poisson) and meat (la viande—le boeuf ou le porc) are often a part of the main entrée in a type of sauce or grilled. There is also a type of starch whether potatoes (une pomme de terre), rice, yams (not what Americans know as yams). Vegetables generally consist of either bitter leaves (Ndolé) with palm oil or other oil based ingredient or a mix of carrots and green beans. Another characteristic food is a type of dough made from cassava which is fermented and wrapped in banana leaves to make a long roll—the small diameter is termed “miondo” is mainly a favorite in Douala. The larger diameter termed “bobolo” is a favorite in Yaoundé. It is a type of substitute for bread and has no real taste although a slight tangy flavor. I have come to eat it regularly as part of the main meals.

City Life

The two cities that I have experienced are quite different although there are common elements.

The taxi system is quite similar in both. There are several of these yellow cars that have a specific route. They are generally cars that are just happy to be running at all. The interior is not of greatest importance. In a regular five-seater 4-door sedan, one can fit two passengers (no matter the size) in the front (one has to sit sideways without blocking the driver’s ability to shift gears) and three in the back (four if small child or small adult). I had the privilege of being a part of a car with 6 passengers and the driver in a small sedan. It was one of the first times I traveled alone and the driver picked up a group of women that were obviously coming from an event. Taxi’s generally are very cheap costing about 50 cents per ride. You can get a taxi with you alone to a specific place for about $2 and is called “depot”. If you want a taxi by the hour, it is about $5 dollars per hour and you yell out “course”. There is also a even cheaper way and may even be required on some roads; the moto or motorcycle is an option that I try not to take although it is was required of me one time. It is quite dangerous given you have no helmet and I have a feeling they get in more accidents than the taxis.

Shopping is a very different experience than most places in the states. The majority of purchases made by the general public are in open markets which are bustling and lively. You can barter any price and you must because they try and sell you items that you know does not cost what they are trying to sell and often made of low material. The best way to acquire clothing is to have items made. This is much more cost-effective than purchasing clothing and you can really create unique styles all your own. Even the indoor stores (magasins) are not really indoors and feel open still. Boulangeries and supermarchés are mainly used for packaged goods such as milk, bottled water, cookies, frommage, etc.

As previously indicated, Douala is the hottest of the two cities. I would say this is the most urban and a little more rough and grungy although there nice areas. Yaoundé is the seat of power and reminds me of Kampala in Uganda. Hills surround the city and it is pretty structured and there is significant character to it. All the ministries including the congress and prime minister are housed in Yaoundé. It is a very professional city. Both cities have thousands of students and host several universities. The two cities are separated by about 230 kilometers and travel between the two is easy using a bus service. One can ride VIP (meaning with air condition) for about $12-$13 one-way.

One of the fun and interesting events that I participated in was International Women’s Day (la journée international de la femme). The holiday has been taken to a greater level than in many parts of the world. A special cloth is made especially for the event with symbols and words exemplifying women in different facets. A different one is made each year. The material is made into so many styles. It is a day for women to rest from their work, participate in positive events, and drink and eat into the night. The husbands are supposed to help around the house and to treat their wives and women in their lives extra special. I was treated to lunch along with the other women with me. There was a lot of controversy though with men being interviewed saying that women were behaving badly and that there was some type of sect behind the whole affair. This is quite sad indeed to think that so many men fight the advancement of women and do not like to see women succeed beyond what they would like. Even with continued accomplishments and destroyed barriers, we must fight still for our equal place in this world to pursue whatever we desire and not be typecast or treated as objects and property.

Fun in the Sun

I make these sections shorter, since I am running a little long. Part of the border of Cameroun is coastal and I received the opportunity to visit two coastal towns. The first was Kribi which is thought by some to be Cameroun’s Riviera. It may not be exactly that but it was beautiful with white sand and uncrowded beaches. One of the must-does in Kribi is to eat fresh fish on the beach. It goes straight from the water to the grill. An interesting story, there is a myth that the women of Kribi have mermaids as guardians so do not mess with these women in particular or there will be trouble.

Limbe was the second coastal town which is near Buea where Mont Cameroun is located. This is a volcanic mountain and maybe the source of the black sand on Limbe’s beaches. It is an active volcano which I believe they said erupted recently in this millennium. It was exquisite playing in the ocean and beachgoers were friendly allowing us to participate in a game of water ball.

Rhythm and Dance

Music and Dance are integral to Cameroonian culture. There is music everywhere and it lends a soundtrack to the entire experience. The dance of this country is hip focused for both men and women. The isolation involved is outstanding. The way the derrière moves, you would be amazed. I am still practicing to say the least. My hosts have taken me to various venues to listen to music and dance. One venue had various acts including a Michael Jackson performance with back up dancers, an albino as Michael Jackson, and intricate scary costumes for the Thriller scene. Beyond this, the singers are highly skilled and talented—one performer tackled Andrea Bochelli!

There is much more that my senses did not get a chance to experience but I hope to return if given the opportunity to I see the north and more of Cameroun’s natural resources. What I did see—C’est manifique! À la prochaine, mes amis.

African Safari Part 2: The Big Game

2009-05-25T21:00:00.013-04:00

During my last trip, it became a wonderful animal adventure. I finally took the time to see some big game. It is usually the objective for the traveller to Africa to see the Big 5: Lion, African Elephant, African Buffalo, Black or White Rhinoceros, and Leopard. These Big 5 are not the biggest necessarily (although they are quite big), but are the most valuable game for hunters because they pose the greatest challenge to hunt. Many of the big 5 are endangered or protected species now so mostly shot by the cameras of the tourist. Unfortunately, senseless poaching and killing of these and other magnificent African fauna still occur. I was able to see 3 of the 5 during my month long safari: Elephant, Buffalo, and White (& Black) Rhino.

They didn't make the list, but two of my favorite animals were the hippos and giraffes. The hippos may seem cute, but they are ferocious causing many more deaths by unwary travellers then the members of the Big 5. The hippos I observed at Lake Naivasha in Kenya and in Swaziland. In addition, I tracked down the warthog and family, white rhino, zebra, impala, heron, and other birdies.

Now my excursion over the borders of Mozambique to Swaziland was quite an adventure into the wilderness. Swazi is so small that it would take about 45 min to cross the entire country, but it has great heart. It is a kingdom and more than 80% of the population is Swazi. They have wonderful game parks and the culture is rich in the area. Tragically, Swazi with all its natural beauty is being hard hit by HIV/AIDS with 40% of the population infected. This statistic is the highest in the world. But the statistic in reality means that when you look upon a Swazi, he or she probably has HIV. What I always find heartening, is that surrounded by hardship whether sickness or poverty, there is still survival and there is still laughter in their lives. Through African eyes I have felt the strength and tenacity of the human spirit. If one can smile in a place where only tears should be, I have no cause to cry in the face of my complaints.

My reason for visiting this new place on the map for me was to go to Mkhaya game reserve that was a private reserve that housed endangered animals. It was definitely a back to nature experience with a luxury edge. There were no cats but plenty of other beautiful wildlife to see. Once you entered the reserve, you were taken to the camp which was about 20-30 min ride into the bush. At the camp, I was ushered down dark paths to my cottage which could best be described as a stone gazebo with a thatched roof. Literally, there were no real walls or windows. When you sat on the toilet you saw Mother Nature staring back at you. Lovely. The beds did have nets to keep out the little buzzing critters and a gate to keep out warthogs. None of the dangerous animals came to the camp though, which was good. You were aroused from your sleep at 5 a.m. each morning by a Swazi with a tray of coffee, tea and a bit of morsel on her head. There were three rides during the day to see the animals: morning, midday walking tour, and just before dark. I met some other travellers including two pediatricians from Ohio who were doing a 2 month internship in Swazi. They were fun. The meals were delicious and quite decadent. This would definitely be a must do if you are in the area.

On one of these trips though, I must check out the cats. Until next time, remember that you are only limited by you.

African Safari Part 1: Naming Names

2009-04-03T15:57:00.006-04:00

Finally, I am writing down my experiences. I do apologize for the delay, but I have not let you down. This will be the first in a two part series related to my month long journey to five African countries (Swaziland was added to my itinerary for a fun adventure). This was a lovely trip for which I must be thankful, for my good fortune was consistent throughout my trip with no lost luggage and no delays on any of my 11 flights. Just to follow-up on my mosquito repellent purchase--just stick with DEET.

My first stop was my beloved Kenya well known for the Maasai—a semi-nomadic tribe found in various parts of Africa--and the Masai Mara—the vast park reserve in the Great Rift Valley where lions, elephants, hippos, giraffe, zebra, impala, and many others can be found (I will show big game in African Safari Part 2). The Masai people have become the well known and easily recognizable face of Kenya for they are a tribe that has shunned the garments of Westernization and worked diligently to preserve its culture. It is said that a Maasai that does venture into the more western sector of society will remain quintessentially a Maasai—with the same customs, minds, and behaviors of their ancestors. The Masai are a remarkable people with many stories circulating about their abilities in the bush including one traveler’s account of the Masai passing near lions with no fear and the lions giving them the respect of not eating him alive.

from www.allposters.com.au

One practice of the Maasai called polyandry I found quite interesting: A woman not only marries her husband but all the men in her husband’s generation or age group. If a Maasai man is away from his home, another Maasai of the same generation can place his spear in the ground, enter the house, and have sexual relations with the man’s wife. If the man returns and finds the spear in the ground he will find another bed to lay his head for the evening. In this modern age of HIV/AIDS, one can imagine how this practice has increased transmission of the virus among the tribe leading to many deaths.

Many tribes have suffered on this account where their customs involve a man having many wives or where there is a sharing of partners. We may think that polygamy is a black and white issue with no gray, but there is more to it then the sexual fantasy of a male mind. One of the driving forces behind polygamy is economic—a man is producing his own work force and since several tribes are agricultural in nature having more people to work the land meant more food and more wealth. I am not promoting nor do I agree with polygamy but the arguments and the origins and motivations behind the practice can be surprising.

I did not go to the Maasai Mara but did find some hippos at Lake Naivasha which is about 90km outside of Nairobi. It is located in the Rift Valley and is one of the few freshwater lakes and one of the largest. This will be a place well-known to you if you have ever seen the movie “Born Free” about the rearing of Elsa, the lioness, by George and Joy Adamson in the 1950s.

It has come to my attention that the cute and adorable hippos are considered the most dangerous of African animals (if you don’t count the mosquito who I would not term an animal). It seems more people die from the hippo than from other animals like the crocodile or rhino or elephant. The hippo doesn’t even eat you since it is an herbivore but its massive jaws and body for that manner just can do you in one quick motion.
Speaking of trauma, I did get a chance to visit my surgeon friend who specializes in trauma at the Kijabe Mission. The mission sits within the rift valley and provides health care to people that would not have access to healthcare otherwise. When you take the drive from the main road to get there, you really can appreciate the blessing the health facility must be for the people in the area. They would literally have to travel over and under and through the “woods” to get to any type of health provider.

In addition to serving the locals, people come across the country and borders to be treated by visiting physicians and obtain surgical intervention for some quite traumatic injuries (bike and auto accidents, hippo run-ins, farming accidents, etc). Check out my friend’s blog http://heal-thyself.blogspot.com for the graphic details.

The reason for the title “naming names” relates to mini investigation I conducted in Kenya and Uganda related to how persons are named. In Kenya, there were names that I would see repeatedly and I first I wondered if persons were related. This was not the case. A common name is structured such that you have the first name, the middle name, and the surname/last name. The first name is usually a Christian name like John, Susan, Joseph, Amos, etc. The middle name can relate to the time one was born (morning, after lunch, evening, night), season of the year, or based on grandparents names. The surname comes from the father’s middle name and can be the full middle name or a part of the middle name. In the Luo culture (the tribe Obama descends from), the following names are used for girls and just add an “O” instead of an “A” for boys based on time or weather conditions at birth—what would your name be:

§ Atieno—night
§ Akoth—raining
§ Adhiambo—evening
§ Anyango—daytime
§ Akinyi—morning
§ Achieng—sunny
In Uganda, naming was done a little differently. The surname is written first and the surname is not the surname of your father or even your mother. The surname is based on region that the person is from whether northern, southern, central, western, or eastern part of Uganda. The first name as in Kenya is usually the Christian name. The grandparents play a large part in naming a child. I found it quite impossible to determine relationships by just peoples’ names.

Learning the nuances of another culture can be a wonderful endeavor. Opening your mind to another’s world and way of thinking give you multiple sides of vision like a fly’s perspective. Learning and embracing different outlooks on the world we live in enables more efficient and extensive ability to process and respond to various conditions and circumstances.

“The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man”

George Bernard Shaw

African Safari 2009

2009-02-22T06:43:00.007-05:00

Dear Readers, it has been some time since the last blog communication. Do not fear for I have not abandon you or finished with my travels. I have just flown into Nairobi, Kenya to begin my African Safari which will include return trips to Kenya, Uganda, Mozambique, and South Africa. This will be done in about a month. It will be a "safari" in the sense that "safari" means "journey" in Swahili as my friend informed me. This trip should definitely be quite a journey; and with every trip, I anticipate learning and experiencing the new whether food, people, culture, adventure.

The trip is already starting on a lovely note. For this month long journey, I am carrying a 21" suitcase, book bag (carry and roll), and a small purse. It is a proud moment for me and I feel quite efficient. In addition, I received a complimentary upgrade to world traveller plus on British Airways for transit from D.C. to London. I love the Brits and their airline--it is one of my favorites although navigating through Heathrow airport can be a bear. On my flight from London to Nairobi on Kenya Airways, there were hardly any passengers so I had three chairs all to myself--and being the petite one that I am, it was quite easy to lay out. It was the morning flight, but I heard from the agent that the afternoon flight is much more crowded for those thinking of travelling in the future. Kenya Airways is another airline that is not too bad and does give you a little more room in economy than some of the others.

It is my belief that you learn gratitude when you experience great loss and when you experience bad travel. It is the little blessings and comforts that you acquire that can turn a mediocre trip into an extraordinary trip.

On this plane for the first time, I took advantage of the in-flight shopping. I brought some decadent chocolates, 8GB USB drive, and a solar mosquito repellent. The latter is what I would like to provide comment. The item was obviously made in a place where the primary language is not English given that the instructions are not really instructions and has some interesting phrasing. The devise is a "hook type" with a solar panel and compass. The insert is separated into section entitled "Introduction", "Specification", "Suitable Use", "Conclusion". There is no information on turning the unit on/off, how long it takes to charge, cautions, troubleshooting, etc. Under specifications, it states "No battery needed", "Compass--to assist people (or student) to identify the directions in outdoors", and "Hook--can be easily hooked on any coat, bag or anything that you are carrying with you". My favorite is the one liner under "Suitable Use": "Holiday makers, camping, hiking, outdoor sports or just sat on the table". I am not sure who made the device since it is not stated on either the insert or the casing. This all makes me somewhat skeptical of its abilities, but at the end of my safari I will let you know if it actually works.

I just wanted to give you an update and a taste of things to come. Have a wonderful month in whatever part of the world you reside.

Inspiring Worlds

2009-01-02T14:45:00.025-05:00

My latest trip was to the land bordered by the Indian Ocean to the east, Tanzania to the north, Malawi and Zambia to the northwest, Zimbabwe to the west and Swaziland and South Africa to the southwest. It is a land still in recovery from the civil war that ended 16 years ago. It was colonized by the Portuguese which is the official language. In the district of Maputo where I visited, the locals spoke Shangaan.

It is a beautiful country with white sand beaches and river valleys under a sun you want to bask in forever. The prawns are fantastic and the people are welcoming. The country is making great steps in development and a South African I met in the travel industry said that Mozambique may surpass South Africa in tourism.

Unfortunately it is a country being ravaged by the HIV/AIDS pandemic with 25% of persons infected. As mentioned in a previous posting, there are only about 700 physicians in the entire country of approx. 21 million people. Here are the highlights from my first visit to Manhica, Mozambique about 1 hour and 20 min from the capital Maputo's airport:

My stories from abroad can be funny but not really bizarre. I usually hear bizarre stories from my fellow coworkers. This trip I was presented with my own crazy and somewhat disturbing tale. During my second morning in Manhica, I decided to walk around this small town to take pictures and see what there was to see. I was strolling down the sandy road when I caught sight of an expansive valley with a river flowing through--a perfect picture. To obtain a better shot I moved closer onto a grassy ledge. Hearing something behind me, I turned around and saw a young man about 6 feet away saying something in Portuguese or maybe Shangaan. I gave him quite a quizzical look and indicated I didn't understand. He then moved to remove his penis from his pants and wave it at me. To this I was quite taken aback and firmly said "Nao...Nao...Nao!" He then shrugged and walked away. I am thinking he was asking for sexual favors and saw a young woman and thought he would give it a try. It was just fortunate that he turned away because I was debating what to do. Travelling alone as a woman is quite different and we have to take more precautions than men. It is not a gender equal world. A bit of advice: A friend of mine said that she watched a show with a prominent doctor that indicated that if you are attacked by a man to grab him firmly by the testicles and yank with all your might. It will instantly paralyze him.
The rest of my trip was not as eventful but a wonderful experience. If you remember my post on South Africa, I met a physician from Barcelona working in Mozambique, so I finally made a visit to the research center where he worked, CISM (Centro de Investigaçao em Saude de Manhiça). CISM was set up by researchers from Spain about 7 years ago and works to not only create a quality center to conduct research, but provides health care to the largest district hospital and trains locals to take on various leadership positions.
One interesting symbol of waste and gross mismanagement was a concrete stage built in the middle of a large grassy area. This large field was used by the townspeople for soccer games. The president was schedule to come to Manhica and speak but wanted to do so on a concrete stage. The large stage was built; the president came for 1 hour; and the large concrete stage remains. There are no more soccer games there and no where else to play.
Here in this country, the head has great utility to carry a variety of items some that are quite heavy. Our scull and spine are quite strong.
Working with the staff all week, I had not seen much of Mozambique and wanted to see at least one beach. Because my host could not take me because of his clinical obligations, he allowed me to use his car to go to Beline about an hour away. Mozambique has left side driving as was the case in South Africa as well (where I had my first experience in international driving). The main roads in Mozambique are good and similar to South Africa. It was smooth although the you must pass a lot which can be tricky. When I reached Beline, it was paradise on earth. It is a lagoon and I stayed at a lodge where you took a speed boat across the water. The lodge consisted of little cottages which were divine. In the morning after sunrise (which I missed since it was at 4:30 a.m. in the morning), I took at 20 min walk to the Indian Ocean where there was a beach undisturbed with crabs at play in the waves. It was a restful and lovely time and a wonderful gift. Interestingly, this was not the best beach. There is still much to see.

This was another one of those tastes of a culture where you want to experience more. Hopefully I can do so this coming year. Mozambique inspires verse and song so I leave you with both.

The World I Offer You
The world I offer you, sweetheart,

has the beauty of an assembled dream.
Here men are believers -

not in gods and other things without sense

but in truths which are pure

and revolutionary,

so beautiful and so humane

that men accept

to die

for these truths to live.

It is this belief, it is these truths

that I have

to offer you.
Here tenderness is not conceived

in bed chambers.

It is a hard, violent, bitter tenderness

born in the tough harshness of the struggle,

in the long marches,

in the waiting days.

It is this tenderness, harsh and bitter

that I have

to offer you.
Here do not grow roses.

The weight of boots crushed the flowers

along the paths.

Here grow maize, cassava, beans

born of men’s efforts

to forestall hunger.

It is this absence of roses,

this effort, this hunger

that I have

to offer you.
Here children don’t grow old,

their smile is eternal,

they play with the sun, the wind,

with the rain and grasshoppers,

with real guns

with bits of grenades.

It is this child’s eternal smile, this sun,

these real guns

(with which I also played)

that I have

to offer you.
The world in which I fight

has the beauty of an assembled dream.

It is this fight, sweetheart, this dream

that I have

to offer you.
Jorge Rebelo (1967)

A Song for Mozambique/Poem Sea of Faces

The Ordinary Lives of What?...Ugandans

2008-12-16T14:19:00.017-05:00

Finally, I am able to write an entry for you. I have had quite a bit of challenges with internet on this trip and had a tragic turn with my computer. Let's just say the lesson here is to not give Ugandan IT (especially at hotels or guest houses) your computer even if it is just to troubleshoot a wireless connection. Fortunately, I have my files intact even if I cannot access them.

You may be wondering at the title of this post. The title comes from the Ugandan way of using the word "What" in their sentences. They ask the question and then answer:

"We need to go to What? the market, to buy some What? mutoke"

It can be used in any What? context. It is really interesting to hear and it is such a part of their conversations that I not sure they are even aware of it and how different it sounds to foreigners.

Well, this is my second trip to Uganda this year. I always find the second or third time around that a country feels more familiar like you are visiting a cousin or grandparent. The people feel like old friends. I start to interact with the local culture and do what "the Romans do" per se. People open themselves more to you and you do become a little more apart of their world.
I did a number of interesting activities that was not part of the ususal tourist's itinerary. One such activity was attending a pantomime. This comes from the English and involves taking a children's story, adapting it to local context, parodying it and having community actors perform it. The cast include both Ugandans and ex-pats (expatriate--one who has taken up residence in a foreign land). Audience participation and commentary is integral. It was quite hilarious with the male lead role played by a woman and the female lead role played by a man. The one I attended was "Robin Hood". It is becoming a tradition with my old graduate advisor and her family. She moved her family (husband and 4 boys) to Uganda and is head of research at the Infectious Disease Institute in Kampala. It is a small world because I see her more working in Uganda then I did in the states. In addition to the pantomime, I went with one of my collaborators to a special church service that was geared to women. It was a speaker from the states and the church was huge with about 6000 members for that location. From what I gather it had been a presence in the area for 25 years. The pastor is white but the majority of the staff, ministers, and congregation is Ugandan. The speaker was Lisa Bevere. What I gathered was the following:

It is not what you inherit but what you leave behind--your legacy
Marriage does not add or subtract years from a woman's life, but it adds 10 years to a man's life; therefore, a woman should be very choosy in which man she gives an extra 10 years.
Anything a man gives a woman, she will multiply it.
Women hold a great deal of influence and power

As you can see it was quite uplifting. Other notes that caused me to pause was how Ugandans use their heads and their bikes. So much is transported on the head, which you will find in many African countries, including wood, bowls, water jugs, luggage. Often times you see a woman with a baby on her back and some substantial item on her head and in her hand. Their use of bikes is even more extraordinary. You will see mattresses, large rice bags, bricks, two or three persons, furniture. Think about it and it can be transported on a bike. I even saw another bike being transported on the utiliatarian bike. During a visit to a rural area where some of the study activities occured, I learned a lot about Ugandan culture:

One thing is that women kneel when they greet someone whether a man or another women. The younger always kneels to the elder of the two. A woman will sit lower than her husband.

When you go to someone's house no matter how small the means of the family they will provide you some food and drink. We were given ground nuts, like peanuts, and jack fruit during our visit.

A household is based on where you eat your meals and who you eat your meals with. A South African teacher living in Uganda told me that it is bad practice to walk and eat. Ugandans consider this very very rude and will tell you so--which is quite out of character. Ugandans are quite agreeable and really patient considering the traffic and chaotic driving environment they must endure--I wasn't even driving and had road rage.

If you provide a good justification or act like you did not know, you can get away with certain laws including property taxes. I stayed at Mums Hotel which was nice but was still having significant construction going on. We were told that it may be a hotel, or a school or a residence. The owner wasn't "sure", so that if, and this is a big if, a government official came to check than they could not say it was definitely a hotel and subject to tax. He can probably get away with this for years. This approach can go for quite a number of things. One can talk themselves out of a ticket, carrying alcohol, or any infarction. You just need an excuse. A main staple of there diet is mutoke which is green banana. They boil it and make a type of mashed dish served with everything.

Many of the people in the villages subsist on farming the land. They wake up very early to tend their crops and then rest in the heat of the day sometimes gathering to play games.

Traditional garb of Ugandan women. Although most young women wear western clothes, it is a requirement when going to see parents and when considered old.

Soccer is a popular sport as with many places in the world except the U.S.

This Muzungu's (any foreigner but initally referred to Europeans) next stop is Mozambique which is a new destination. I am actually writing from there now, so check back in a week for my window into this world. It will be juicy.

The Deadly Combination--A Documentary about TB in South Africa

2008-11-20T17:49:00.001-05:00

The Eyes Have It

2008-11-02T13:47:00.008-05:00

"With eyes that look'd into the very soul-- . . . . Bright--and as black and burning as coal."
Lord Byron

Some of the best sourvenirs that I acquire in my travels abroad are the pictures that depict the heart of a land--the people. The differences and the similarities of two peoples on opposite sides of the globe are great studies into humanity. I see hard working men and women trying to make a living for their families, continuing and breaking traditions, believing and worshiping in their faith, laughing and joking about their neighbors and their politics, and proud of their country but frustrated about their government. I also see conditions I would find unlivable where these same people not only survive, but live and grow.

It has been such a privilegde in my life to visit a place and not come as a tourist, an outsider yes, and see the inner workings of a culture and environment. The famous landmarks and attraction are nice to behold, but the most wonderful treat is to meet new acquaintances, eat great food among friendly hearts, and hear interesting stories about another's reality.

On this recent trip, I returned to Kisumu, Kenya and the Karemo District, known for the violence following the Kenyan elections and the birthplace of Obama's father. Kenya is becoming a familiar stop that I become a little more intimate with each trip. One new tidbit I learned was that you may find people in this western part of Kenya more welcoming than in central Kenya where there is more suspicion and less openness because they had a lot of their land stolen. Also, some tribes are known by very interesting traits--the Masai acquire or steal tires to make these sandals that are known for their durablity and at one time was a fad. The Kamba tribe are known to sell tires and no matter what city or town you go and find a tire store, it will be a Kamba there.

The pictures I love most are of children. During one of my visits to a local primary school where the mobile field station for our study was located at the time, the school children spotted my camera and surrounded me with pleas for me to take their picture for which I gladly complied.

It was quite funny later on as I moved toward my work that they would pass in twos or stand and sit in a pose that I might capture them on "film". I love the eyes of children, for in them lies so much depth, potential, dreams, and hope.

On a humorous note while traveling to the KEMRI/CDC field station, the driver would tune to a morning radio show host similiar to Tom Joyner who would take calls and input on a question that was submitted. The questions were wild:

Wife wants forgiveness for cheating once on her husband who has cheated numerous times even bringing one and two women at a time into marital bed--should he forgive her?
How to tell man that he is lousy in bed?
Future mother-in-law wants to train husband in bed matters? (This was a little weird, we weren't sure what that actually meant.)
A woman financially supported a man for 10 yrs, and is tired and decided wants to cut him loose. He has run up much debt. Should she cut him loose and should a woman support her man financially?

There were others, but those are the ones I remember. I also find that I find some interesting fare on the T.V. as well. During this trip I saw a movie about a call center girl in New Delhi, India, who connects with a rich music producer in the UK handling his bank account. There was conspiracy to kill him by his wife who he was divorcing and all this was garnered from his bank account. He falls for her and eventually visits India and of course they end up together happily ever after.

In addition, I learned that a large majority of hair extensions come from India in two different ways. The cheaper lower quality hair comes from the hair balls that children gather from the hair from the brushes and combs of their mothers. These hair balls are collected by hair dealers who take them to factories where women work for pennies to tease, treat, and prepare the hair for commercial use. This lower quality grade is used for stage and costume wigs. The premium hair often comes from the practice of Hindu women (and men) of sacrificing their hair (sometimes the only thing they have to give) to their gods. This is carefully removed from the scalp and the temple allows (for a price) the hair dealers to come and take the hair for processing. Much of this hair is shipped to China who is the number one processor of weave in the world although their supplies from Chinese women have lessened because of the trend of shorter cuts. It kind of makes you look at weave in a new light.

A Minute in Paris, A Second in Nairobi

2008-10-20T07:34:00.019-04:00

I have accomplished quite a lot since 5 days ago when I published last. Thankfully, my plane rides were uneventful which was quite a feat since I have been on 4 planes touching three countries in two continents. Maybe there will be some juicy plane gossip on the way back. As I indicated earlier, my first stop on this current journey was to the City of Love, Paris. Although I found no love, it proved to be a beautiful experience. In brief, the following were interesting to note:

Everything is designed for small people--the elevators, the hallways, the roads, the clothes. I see why it is the City of Love, you become quite intimate with people when crowded into a lift.
The subway system was extensive and efficient (as reported in Barcelona) leading me to the conclusion that European subway and railway systems are far superior to our best in the U.S.

The computer keyboards are quite different with added and rearranged characters. This becomes a challenge for those who have had the structured 10-fingered typing classes of old to shot an e-mail to a friend.

Some interesting 3rd party information: 1) It was heard from a fellow from the Philippines who has lived in Paris for 17 years that he has never witnessed a fight meaning that the city is pretty safe 2) There are many tunnels, including the one where Princess Diana had her fateful crash; it was told that people still leave flowers and mementos at the site; in addition, it is thought that she might have been saved if she was rushed to a hospital instead of treated at the scene where they may have missed her internal injuries. This appears to be standard practice in Paris, so be advised to not get into any accidents.

The Eiffel Tower sparkles at night.

The wine menus at French restaurants tend to be larger than the food menu. Our table was provided a two page menu of entrees and a 10-15 page menu of wine.

Erotic art is the norm and you will find naked breasts and other naked body parts in the most common places--the subway terminal, a restaurant, a hotel room or hall, a prime time commercial. As a matter of fact, the french are comfortable with the naked human form.

Achieved goal #1--Have sumptuous meals: I had 2 wonderful meals--Cameroonian and French.

Achieved goal #2--see the Eiffel Tower: I not only saw the Eiffel Tower but saw many of the well known landmarks including the Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame, Musee du Louvre, and other architecturally impressive building for which I do not know the name.

Achieved goal #3--buy outfit: This one was only done in part. I got a hat although a very cute hat. In addition I was able to get a few souvenirs as well which I wasn't sure was going to be possible given my itinerary. My meetings were so close that the stores all closed except for a small souvenir shop next to Notre Dame (shops close by 7p.m. yet restaurants are open all night)--God's grace was upon me that day for I was almost sure to have left empty-handed otherwise.

So that is Cherise in Paris. Early Friday morning, I was flying to the African continent. The plan was to stay in Nairobi for 3 days to connect with an old friend. I met Chad at Hopkins when he was a medical student and I was a public health graduate student. He was the twin of a guy I knew in undergraduate who either I did not know or forgot had a twin. This was quite a surprise to come face to face with the spitting image of someone you know but knew they were not supposed to be there. Awww, the funny moments in life. From this point, Chad was to be my friend. That was 7 years ago and since then we have only spoken by phone, each making moves in our respective fields.

It ended up that Chad decided to work for a mission in Kijabe, Kenya for a year after finishing his residency in Boston, and it just so happen that I take periodic trips to Kenya with my current job. Thus, the two meet again face to face. Alas, it was but a brief meeting due to his clinical obligations but a fun one no less--a taste of authentic African cuisine, bartering at an open door market, and strolling around Nakumatt, the equivalent of Walmart. I must say that Chad is one of the most beautiful people I know and he is doing wonderful things in medicine so look for his name in the near future.

It is a national holiday in Kenya today; I am not sure which one. It is my impression that they have many more holidays then we do in the States. In the morning, I will be headed to Kisumu for 2-weeks so expect more updates. Au revoir and kwa heri.

On the Road Again

2008-10-14T16:14:00.007-04:00

It has been about two months since last I wrote which was a nice break and gave me time to get organize and socialize. But, with true-to-the-bone travelers, the itch begins to rise. It is definitely time to fly the friendly (hopefully) skies. Just as an aside, one of my coworkers got stuck beside a rowdy drunk guy on a trip to Europe who put his stinky feet on her and then when she moved them started aiming all types of vulgar language her way. One of my colleagues ended up in a guest house in Uganda that had rats and where they rented out the room by the hour--don't worry, she found better accommodations. There are more horror stories, but I will not frighten you so. The upsides of travel can far outweigh the occasional negative encounters or incidences. Fortunately, I have been wonderfully blessed as I have gone to my various destinations with only the random surprise. Right now, I am sitting in the British Airways Lounge even though I am still a blue member and not flying in the premium class. The receptionist was so nice to let me in which is especially nice since my flight isn't until 6:55 p.m. and it is now only 3:45 p.m.

So where am I going you ask. Well, my first stop is Paris, France--I know, I know. This will be my first time in Paris. It is going to be a tease though because it will be only two days, but I am known to make the most out of whatever time I have in a place. In Italy while attending a 3-day conference in Milan, I fit in shopping, sight-seeing, train ride to Stresa, and train ride to Venice. It was exceptional. My goals in Paris are to have sumptuous meals, buy one outfit, see the Eiffel Tower, and take tons of pictures.

From "Aah, Paris!" (say with a French accent), I will be headed to increasingly familiar spot--Kenya. First on the agenda is to spend a few days in Nairobi connecting with an old friend and then on to Kisumu. I am already preparing myself to be greeted with shouts of "Obama!!" Last time I reported visiting Obama's grandmother's house and father's grave. If only Kenyans could vote.

For news in Cherise's world, I have finished my third running race participating in a 4-person relay marathon. Again, we were not the first, but we were not the last.

Place: 647 out 689
Race # 9028 Team Name: A.I.R
Members: Cherise (Time: 1:22:31), John (Time: 53:55) (in place of Shea who was sick), Charlene (1:24:50), Sylvie (Time: 1:21:50)
Team Total: 5:03:07

Another aside, you know there are people in this world (mostly Kenyans who live on thin air) that complete a marathon (26.2 miles) in a little over two hours which is like 4 1/2 minutes a mile. The current world record holder is actually a Ethiopian by the name of Haile Gebrselassie. The human body is amazing with limits that defy the imagination.

Don't forget to check back in the coming days for updates on my travels. Au revoir!

The Ugandan Way

2008-08-04T15:35:00.007-04:00

Sebo or Nyabo (Sir or Madam)! Green are the lands of the Ugandans, it is some of the must lush and fertile earth one can see on this earth. I begin this journey in Kampala which is growing and has really nice areas. While in the city I visited Makerere University and the Institute of Infectious Disease which has several research projects underway. Touring one ward, you say a waiting room filled with people awaiting to see a clinician—it was only later that it was pointed out that these were the HIV-infected. There had to be over 50 people in that one room and it hits you with the magnitude of the HIV/AIDS pandemic lest you forget.

The people of Uganda are survivors from ancient times through the tyrannical rule of Idi Amin 20 years ago to the continued economic hardships and food shortages. The majority of the people cannot obtain what they have to pay for even in the smallest amount. If you want good education for your children you must pay. Primary school is paid by the government and this same government is only recently deciding to pay for secondary school. But for the most part, Ugandans have to pay for their education so you have their schools filled with outsiders from other African countries more than insiders. Parents have a hard time buying uniforms and often a child’s uniform will serve as the only adequate clothing the child has. The government has a subsidized lunch program in the schools that cost about 2000 shillings (a little over 1 dollar), but many families could not afford even that amount. Many get there subsistence from what they can grow or make. You do have families that have helping put other families’ children through school. There is much promise in Uganda and it is progressing however slowly—it used to take 3 hours on a road from Jinja to Iganga (40 km) because there were so many ruts and potholes and with no road rules as people tried to just find a good part of the road. It now takes only about 30-40 minutes.

Mentioning Jinja and Iganda, that is where I stayed. Jinja is my place to sleep and rest because it has adequate Internet capability. Iganda is the town (which has become quite a bustling area) where the project office is located. Electricity goes in and out and the Internet is so slow and difficult that the project staff struggles to communicate with us in the States. They say there are those that steal the copper to sell from the electrical lines constantly and the electrical companies have to continually replace it. Jinja is known as the place of the source of the Nile. You will be absolutely amazed. Many travelers come to the area to white water raft or bungee jump into the Nile (seeing that I am quite handicap in the water, this will not be me). The rapids are said to be class 5/6 (class 6 you are not even supposed to attempt). I am tempted but will pass this time. If you are interested in coming to the area, you should come soon because they are building a dam that will remove on of the falls (Bugali) and limit the white water rafting. Word of caution, a friend of mine said to beware of rafting down the Nile for several tourist are contracting schistosomiasis--so take with you praziquantel. What I did embark upon is a horseback safari that was great fun; I consider myself a budding equestrian now.;-)

One of the best features of traveling to these different sites around the globe is that you always meet people doing interesting work or just plain have an interesting life. During horseback riding, I met a group of Belgians working in different environments--CARE (?) (helping with preserving the rain forest), World Bank, and Ugandan schools and orphanages.

Namaste!

2008-06-14T23:15:00.015-04:00

Namaste (Hello in Hindi) from India! There is been much going on since last I wrote and I will try in hit the highlights. India is like Brazil and the U.S.; they are such large countries with diversity at every point so it is worth multiple trips in order to experience them in full. This was a relatively quick trip with tons of work to do so I didn't do much site seeing but I fully enjoyed all that I was able to do. Here in India they work on Saturdays, so their weekend is pretty much one day--and we were complaining about how short the 2 day weekend was. To set you up for the following highlights, part of my work was in Bangalore for 3 days; there was a road trip to the field site in Palamaner about 2 1/2 to 3 hours away; I returned to Bangalore for about 3-4 days to finish my work. My Sundays here are my free days. Next go round, I must take leave and see the Taj Mahal and other sights--maybe the coast where there is a city that is all pink--I've seen pictures and it's cool. You already received a tidbit of my first few days in Bangalore, but that Sunday I was intent on viewing my surroundings and conducting the majority of my shopping. I took a walk around the St. John's campus where there are deer and a bird sanctuary. Later, it was told that there were other guests that I could join for a city sightseeing trip and I decided to tag along--low and behold they were students from Alcorn State University (a fellow HBCU like FAMU my wonderful Alma mater) in Mississippi and quite colorful characters. It threw me off a bit to have the southern accents in the midst of Indian culture, but there commentary during our drive was hilarious.

Driving here is more hectic and you feel you life is on the brink every time. It was told to me that there are very few accidents--and I pray that is so. There is constant passing, constant braking, many cross overs and cut offs, cars coming dead on, and near misses. Trust me, it is wild and not much better on the highways. It is comforting to note that the big trucks and buses are bullies here as well.

During our sightseeing tour, we went to a very large Krishna Temple (Hindu). They say that the richest temple in the world is in India that beats out the Vatican in the amount of wealth it holds. The devotees and priest in the temple do get married which is different than Catholicism. I only mention this because there was a hot Hindu Priest saying prayers (no photographs were allowed, sorry) In India, the majority religion is Hindu, followed by Islam (13-14%), followed by Christianity (2%) although I saw many Christian churches and met quite a few Christians during my stay. There was a market with various religious artifacts and sweets. India does not feel as dense as China although it has a very high population that I believe is second to China. In China you felt overwhelmed by the number of people, I did not feel so where I was in Bangalore although it might feel this way in other cities in the country.

We went to the State House and High Court buildings as well and then went to do some shopping. If you come to Bangalore, you can go to FabIndia which is overpriced and a little snooty, or you can wade through traffic and people and head to commercial street which has better deals and you can barter. Now on to Palamaner. It was like going to my great grandmother's house in the rural area outside of Shreveport Louisiana. The staff at the site work in the area all week and then return to Bangalore on Saturday afternoon to have fun with friends in the city. As you can imagine, there is not much happenings for young people. There is definitely a certain peacefulness and refreshing you obtain in the countryside with the breezes and fresh produce that abound. Also, everyone has a cow. There are many foods here that I have never tasted or heard of like drumstick and jack fruit (there are others but I will not attempt to spell). The food is spicy (they use chili peppers a lot)and amazing and better yet home cooked. I am learning to eat with my fingers and it is quite fun. They eat rice and curd (yogurt basically) with every meal. There is very little cheese in their dishes--I have only seen a cottage cheese in spinach. There are mangoes and papayas and coconuts galore. There is the nan, chapati, and other breads. They share a lot of what they have and make guest feel like royalty. Mothers serve everyone at the table before they will eat themselves. They try and accommodate you any way they can and always willing to show you the way. Note to visitors--don't keep saying "thank you", once upon leaving is enough. It was said that "thank you" is used in formal occasions or when you interact with a stranger so that if you keep saying "thank you" it make the other feel like they are distant from you or a stranger.

This is getting somewhat long so I will wrap it up and you can experience through the eye of photography (check out slide show). Some of the staff took me along for walks in the countryside and went for dinner and to see the town. The field site operates out of Emmaus Hospital that has treated leprosy for over 30 years and is quite established in the community. The native tongue of the area is Telegu. In Bangalore which is in the state of Kanataka, speaks Kanataka. Everyone speaks Hindi. Before I forget and leave Palamaner, I cannot forget to mention the monkeys for they will be quite offended. There are many of them and they are quite mischievous. Be careful with your bananas and other fruit for they will snatch right from your hand. I was working and heard quite a commotion--the darn little things had turned over a pot, was throwing pieces at a young woman and was chasing another! I will conclude my trip and write a bit more on my experiences--until then I hope all is vibrant and beautiful in your life as the color and people of India.

Was That A Yes

2008-06-06T10:36:00.014-04:00

Hola Compadres! (Ok, I will figure out an Indian greeting soon.) I have made it out of the country through Terminal 5 at Heathrow into Bangalore India with no delays and no lost luggage. Quite an accomplishment if I do say so myself. Terminal 5 is quite lovely with high-end shopping although it takes as bit to get there from the other Terminals so beware that you don't mistakenly end up there--it's a long way back (45 min). I had the luxury of taking a two hour nap on the plush seating with other weary travellers. It's quite an extraordinary experience snoring and drooling among the masses.

Speaking of accomplishments a few sentences back and before I get into my first impressions of my current surroundings, I must inform you of the completion of the second running race of my entire life--the Zooma Women's Half-Marathon in Annapolis, Maryland, June 1, 2008. Again, I feel the need to provide you with proof and of course to brag a little:

Place--591 Number--1039 Split (5k mark)--39:24 Gun Time--3:07:04 Net-Time--3:04:45 Pace--14:06

After losing a day, the soles of my feet plopped down for the first time on Indian concrete. My first trip to India, layover in a new terminal, and arriving in a new airport of only 15 days at the breaking of a new day (4:15 a.m.)--sweet!

One of the first cultural differences one will notice besides the obvious garment and language differences is the way the affirmative is provided. We nod up and down to indicate agreement while they nod side to side but with a swerve--think of a fast Stevie Wonder, or a bobble head. This makes you wonder how we have come to express "yes" in the various cultures of the world. I will have to do some investigation and get back with you.

Lunch (yes there has been no sleep since I have arrived) was a journey into the tastes of south India. In the states, what we usually experience as Indian food is mostly from Northern India. One of the distinct foods of the south is a "dosa" which is a huge triangular rice patty filled with various treats such as cheese and masala. There is a lot of yogurt and chutney around as well. Etiquette-wise, one should eat with only one hand and the right hand at that. The food is quite spicy although they have not allowed me to taste the real hot stuff. In general, they spice their food about 4-fold higher than what we would think as spicy. I say bring it on. Next post-"American explodes from hot Indian experience."

Stay Tuned...

2008-05-03T19:05:00.006-04:00

The journeys begin again in June so stay tuned. I will be headed to Bangalore, India, for a site visit and then from there to Philadelphia, PA, for a training. In mid-July, I will be flying to Kampala, Uganda for two weeks and am looking forward to seeing my old graduate advisor who moved her whole family to Uganda (husband and four sons). In August, I am looking forward to going back to Kenya and can hopefully fit in some additional site seeing. This is to just give you a taste so you don't forget to check out the blog. I haven't forgot and will keep you posted, but I figured my faithful readers did not need to hear of all my happening in the local area.

Although, I do want to inform you that I finished my first ever running race. It was a 10k (6.1 mile) run down Rockville Pike from Shady Grove Metro to White Flint Mall. It was a relatively easy race (so some say). My results are as follows:

Place--1231 Number--2500 Gun Time--1:18:34 Net Time--1:14:19 Pace--11:58

And here is the picture to prove it:

Kwaheri Tuonane

2008-04-03T07:16:00.012-04:00

So my month long journey is coming to an end, and I must bid Kenya "Kwaheri Tuonane" (Swahili for "Goodbye" & "See you soon"). I definitely feel quite accomplished on varioius planes (no pun intended) and feel a richness in my life that comes so freely when you see other lands and interact with people from different backgrounds and cultures. Travelling no matter how short or how far is a curative against ennui. It is kind of hard to yawn when on the move.

Having stayed in Kisumu for almost two weeks and visited around the area, I feel the duty to give more positive coverage beyond the riots and the violence. Here are some of my highlights from my time here.

In the Nandi Hills there are gorgeous tea estates and fields of sugar cane.

The province of Karemo that encompasses Kisumu is home of the Luos (Odinga is a Luo) as well as other tribes like the Masai. It is also the tribe of Barack Obama. This area where we will conduct our TB studies is the area that Obama's Dad grew up. We to a trip out to Siaya (a township in Karemo) and I got to meet the Chiefs of the location (Kenya is organized such that you have the country--the province--the district--the location--the sublocations--the villages--the compounds--the individual). In addition, I visited Obama's grandmother's house and met a cousin (the grandmother was out and about). They said she has been getting so many visitors from media especially during Super Tuesday. Near by, the school that Obama's father attended was named after him during his visit. Interesting to note if Kenyans were allowed to vote in the U.S. elections, those that support Odinga would vote for Obama and those that side with Kibaki would vote for Clinton (there was actually a survey).

Kisumu has the most bikers I have seen per capita. On the roads you have the bikes (boda bodas), the tuk tuks, the matatus (vans), fish trucks, other trucks, cars, cattle, goats, and pedestrians. They also drive on the wrong side of the road, but I think I will take a taxi in this instance instead of renting a car). On the news the other day, I say that the majority of traffic accidents in the world are in Africa. When you drive around, you can see why.

People are so hosipitable. They are always saying "welcome" and "pleasure". They think nothing of inviting strangers for dinner and they always allow the guest to have the last bit of food. There is the feeling of community and the extended family beyond your immediate reach. I think Kenyans (at least one did) view Americans as selfish in many ways which although being wealthy in material things puts them in a place of a sort of poverty--poverty of the soul or spirit.

I was taken out to a local hang out and had some of the best smoked chicken I think I have ever tasted, at least in a long time; although, the guy cooking was Ugandan.

The internet was atrocious (maybe too strong, let's say "inconsistent"), but I guess sometimes one needs to slow down and take a break from the madness that is the net--a staple in the modern world.

Do you know that men still have to pay dowry if they want to marry a woman (although it may not be practiced as much). There are still a few animals involved, but they have incorporated monetary forms of payment for some animal requirements.
There are so many exotic birds and flowers to see. One bird is so loud and sounds like a child crying out.
If from my treatise you feel the need to visit Kisumu, you will find yourself flying into the most minute airport you have ever seen. You may think you have arrived at someone's house. The baggage claim is the driveway next to the building. The entrance and security check are one and the same. You may question where you have arrive to, but don't be scared for you have reached Kisumu (a normally peaceful region with that one exception).

Next time I come I will try and do a little vacation before or after and go to Mombasa and Lamu (suggestion from a friend who says their is much fun there). I am in London and soon to reach home soil. Thank you for tuning in for this journey and I hope that you will continue on. There is a little rest for me for about a month or so, but I will still write here and there to keep you abreast of the plans and preparations. I would check biweekly though instead of weekly unless you want to peruse my lovely photos and informative lists. Will write soon my "rifiki" (friend).

In The News

2008-03-29T10:05:00.014-04:00

I feel like a blip in the Associated Press. Here I am in Kisumu, just in the spotlight as one of the locations of significant uprising and riots during the post-election violence. They say Kisumu was somewhat nicer before the riots which destroyed much of any beauty there was. Interestingly, yesterday there were threats of more riots because the two opposing parties couldn't agree about the number of cabinet ministers--why is compromise so hard?

Talking with the various residents you gain a lot of insight into the events and how it affected people’s lives.

Many of the staff at the KEMRI/CDC during the day of initial shooting and rioting found their normal shuttle into town (about 5 km away) not in operation. They had to walk to town and by a different route than the main road.
Residents were trapped in their homes for 7 days unprepared with essential needs like water and food while looters burned government buildings and blocked roads and sprayed bullets through town. Many other families fled to Nairobi (40 min flight).

There was vandalizing of the water pipes and telephone lines. People had to buy bottled water and many have walk long distances to get water from Lake Victoria.

One of the staff members shared that his brother was captured by the rioters which he found out on his way from fleeing town. He had to return and talk the ones he knew to let his brother go.

Some knew of those that died; some knew of those that lost their homes having to stay with relatives until a new place could be found.

People always have the ability to find humor in the aftermath of crisis; I think it helps dissipate the fear and uneasiness that arises.

There was jokes about the number of mediators that got turned down and one that came by plane from South Africa and got turned back with his head between his knees. Poor Kofi Annan, after garnering a deal, has every one calling him to work out their conflicts and problems.

Zimbabwe's President is threatening people not to do a "Kenyan” and who knows that the riots didn't inspire Tibet.

During the riot all the restaurants and pubs were closed, but one with the rioters passing by stopping for the chance to get a beer.

The business and life of Kisumu is returning to normal but there are many scars that are evident along the streets and in the minds of the people. In the midst of busy markets there is tentativeness, where you’re not quite sure if it is really all over.

There is suspicion and resentment underlying especially if one is considered sympathetic to Kibaki's party. This is an area that supported the opposition. The take of some people is that Kibaki's party was one keeping Kenya from progress and only building infrastructure in areas where they lived or had friends or ties. We traveled the roads from Kisumu to Eldoret to see a lab--the roads were absolutely terrible the entire way, like being on a wooden bumpy rollercoaster for 3 1/2 hours.

The government should be ashamed of themselves for having so many roads in such a state. Nairobi is 350 km away from Kisumu and it can take 7 hours to get there because the roads are so bad. One of my colleagues traveled on a road to a hospital where a government official lived and it was paved and smooth as ice.

I think history is showing that people have their limits and will take matters into their own hands in the face of oppression, corruption, and poverty when they have no hope of change from those in power. There has been revolutions and uprising on every continent (except Antarctica) since the beginning of human civilization as a means to effectuate change. It is not a means to an end that will go away any time soon.

Shifting Gears

2008-03-21T17:18:00.014-04:00

It is very late at night and I am in the airport in Johannesburg ready to head off to Kenya. At the last minute I decided not to go home first and then come back to Kenya in five days--it was a wise move and I came within budget. My destination is Kisumu where some of the uprising and violence occurred during the unrest around the Kenyan elections. This segment of my trip has been very up in the air--"to go or not to go, that is the question". From those in the trenches, life is getting back to before and the agreement between the two opposing parties seems to be working. Stay posted for blogs from Kenya and pictures of course.

To wrap up my trip to South Africa, it was definitely overall positive and the collaborators I visit were wonderfully hospitable. Some additional highlights or commentary:

Beach excursion to Hermanus and Hawston where the sky was clear blue, the mountains ever impressive, and the ocean ice cold! They say you must go further east for warmer waters.

The town of Worcester felt very much like small town U.S.A. but not so friendly as Cape Town. I would go a little batty if I had to stay there too long, I would be in Cape Town at every chance. The people at the site were very nice, but the town inhabitants were not so inviting. It has the feel of being stuck back in time.

It was my first time staying at a guest house/bed & breakfast and it was cozy and nice, but I think I might prefer hotels for having services and staff available at all hours.

Olives farms and vineyards were everywhere creating beautiful countrysides--I absolutely love olives. I purchased some white truffle olive oil which has the taste of garlic. It was a good experience and I learned a lot about tasting olives like the experts.

What would happen that I should meet a handsome Spaniard from Barcelona of all places!! He was in Worcester to visit the site (we quite bonded over a gastric lavage and induced sputum demonstration). He was a physician living in Mozambique and had been their 6 months. He is into infectious diseases and will be working with TB and many many children. In all of Mozambique, he said there are only 700 doctors! He deals daily with the complexity of treating children especially children with malnutrition, HIV, and TB. He might be one of our collaborators in the near future--road trip (plane trip may be more accurate)! But it will be only for work and scientific exchange for at last he has a girlfriend; although, it was such a treat to have a breakfast and dinner partner for a few days.

The last day had much time to spare before my plane and went to the largest mall in all of Africa, Century City and got a massage and hair do--travelling can have its toll.

Only bad incident and I am quite ashamed to share is that I scratched up my rental car--Wait! It is not as you suppose. I was superb driving on the wrong side of the road; it is always the parking that haunts me and those darn walls and pillars and narrow spaces. So sad! Thank goodness for insurance.

It looks like I am spending Easter away from home but it will be ok. I may be able to find a service at a local church. It appears around Africa they have a four day weekend which is quite nice. Well I hope you are gaining something from my updates and will continue with me as go here and there and everywhere.

Bubbles Bursting

2008-03-15T14:13:00.003-04:00

Tears fall, lives speak
Prolific earth
Why do we not hear, why do we not see?
What is it we feel cold underneath our feet?
My heart o’ one
What heart o’ you
If you prick there we bleed
And one we are the same

Travelling you encounter so many images where there are smiles and fun encounters with local people and culture--the light and fuzzy moments to write home about and publish web albums about, reinforcing the bubble of our world. Now there are those that seek the experiences of the struggling and torn to aid and assist or just come to a greater sense of the position in life. If you ever have such experiences, the heart is usually pricked and emotions exude, although the duration of this social awareness is really dependent on the level of selfishness within. What the majority of sights of the dying souls do for us is increase our gratitude for what we are not and where we are not. It bursts our bubbles and gives us a different bird’s view of life. There is much value in this because we often shift how we approach our sphere of influence and may do better and treat others better.

The unfortunate value that does not usually result is significant action that effectuates change in circumstances of those who do not have and those that can’t see out of their troubled world. (Aside: The words I write, I feel and relate so I pass no judgment and may feel greater guilt.) What the haves often face is what to tackle out of all the opportunities for charity? The answer is always the same, work to uplift and build what is closet to your heart and work outward. It is the brick by brick, starfish by starfish, philosophy and it is sound.

I bring this up because I experience the above now and because in my life’s path I have had the privilege of having my bubbles burst on many occasions in many different places domestic and abroad to now there is no bubble and I am engaged with knowing humanity at every level and stage. I am not so courageous and enlightened because I just visit and do not live where there is no hope—the courage and strength go to those that stuggle yet survive and endure every day carrying out the normalities of life (family, meals, working, sleeping, etc) in the midst of abnormalities.

There are pictures to show and words to write to help give you a small understanding of such struggles. Presently, I am working with a site for my job located outside of Cape Town, South Africa, in the small town of Worcester. We have a study that is looking at the incidence of Tuberculosis (TB) in the region. TB is often referred to as the “poor man’s disease” because it finds ample means of transmission where there is overcrowded conditions and poor health. In addition, 50% of new cases of TB are in persons with HIV/AIDS, a disease ravaging Africa.

The area is gorgeous as is much of the land of Africa surrounded by mountains on every side. This is an area and country that knew the old regime of apartheid (a system of numerous laws that allowed the ruling white minority in South Africa to segregate, exploit and terrorize the vast majority: Africans, mostly, but also Asians and Coloureds - people of mixed race) which only moved out with the new regime (Nelson Mandela as president) in the early ‘90s. Only the new generation has a fresher view with lesser wounds but still issues remain.

The other day, I was allowed to shadow field workers from our studies as they visited the participants to follow-up on their child’s health and contact with TB. Our participants come from all walks of life but a good proportion come from the non-white communities. Many of the Black (Xhosa speaking) and Coloured (Afrikaans speaking--also spoken by whites) live in the same conditions lived under in apartheid. I saw much poverty in this rural region. There are those that have found new opportunity and hope with the new regime but there is such a vast number that are still in destitute circumstances. Having to walk or find transportation to work or hospitals or shopping are several kilometers away (talking over 3-5 miles at times). There are more "shebeens" (liquor stores) than clinics or food stores in the communities. There is a city dump maybe a few kilometers away from the Coloured community were many are seen walking to get their meal for the day.

The upper classes live near the resources in their communities with minority populations of Blacks and Coloureds; the Coloureds live a little farther from the resources in their communities with some Blacks; and the Blacks live farthest in their communities with no integration. There is alcohol abuse, teen pregnancy, crystal meth (“tik”) addictions, and little means to live. One of the workers mentioned that there seems more of a gap between the Coloureds and the Blacks after apartheid then before. When both were oppressed under the old regime, they had a unified enemy and with that lifted their differences seem more apparent which saddens her.

Many in the Worcester find work in the farms and vineyards (which are numerous). If they are lucky, they will have work for the entire year while others get only seasonal work and are unemployed for the rest of the year. The structures that some call home are indescribably (please see photos); these are the shanties. Some have no roofs, there is toilet water flowing in the streets (the same streets children play and people go about their day), and there are impassable roads. There are no heating and cooling systems and days can get so hot and nights can get so cold. There are bare feet on hard icy roads.

Pop! Pop! Pop! [the sound of bubbles bursting]

The Best of Both Worlds

2008-03-12T13:02:00.003-04:00

There is a competition in the works for my affection happening right now and it is quite heated; on one side there is the beguiling Rio de Janeiro and on the other the exquisite Cape Town. I am falling hard for the Cape Town and surrounding areas. Both cities have what I am attracted to the most and that is Mountains and ocean in co-existence.

I really could live in Cape Town and walk out of my front door or back door or side door and see a gorgeous view. Some have said it reminds them of San Francisco area because of the mountains and coastline, as well as, the numerous vineyards. Guess what faithful readers?…I have answered the gauntlet and climbed on the horse and driven where many have driven before. I, Cherise, have driven (extensively I might add as you will see) on the wrong side of the road. I own the road. You can be proud and I bow in light of your applause. Thank you, thank you.

You may ask why I am here although through the slideshow you may gain the impression that it is all play and no work. Do not be deceived, there is much sweat on my brow. I am working with one of our clinical research sites in implementing and/or improving quality systems (if you must ask).

But enough of work, I have thus far travelled by foot to Kirstenbosh National Botanical Gardens which are beautiful and right at Table Mountain. By car, there was the visit to see the African Peguins, Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope and the Chapman’s Peak Drive (there was a bike race during the weekend with 42,000 participants—can we say wow?!). One of the most amazing sites on my drive was to see clear blue skies and oceans on the east coast transition to thick dense fog on the west coast (talk about moody). They say that is where all the weather comes in to Cape Town.

Discovering the local language is always a fun activity on a trip. People are extremely friendly here—I asked directions (yes I got slightly lost) from a South African woman and not only did she direct me to turn left and through the robots (traffic lights) and I would see the milestones (signs) for the road I needed, but she also wondered if I would like her cell phone in case I had any questions (would not happen in the states). She then said “Cheers” and went on her way. How nice is that? I also learned that a barbeque is a “braai” and when people have helped you the say a “pleasure”.

What I am finding as I travel is that I am beginning to be a collector of things. You get kind of overwhelmed by souvenir possibilities and never quite do well with getting rid of them or picking the right ones. I have now started to be strategic in my shopping and consider my limited luggage space and funds. For me, I am collecting unique scarves, dresses, earrings, and rings. In addition, I am collecting postcards (which I am sending out), ornaments for my cousin and earrings for another cousin. Some items will be added along the way as I get more specific requests (hint, hint!).

I am also collecting other things that are not necessarily tangible like quotes, watching rugby at Irish pubs (Ireland lost), and finding running routes in each country visited. Here are two quotes I have found thus far (one from Barcelona and one from Cape Town):

¨ “The rapturous, wild and ineffable pleasure of drinking at somebody else’s expense” Henry Sambrooke Leigh (on a hotel coaster) [Barcelona, Spain]

¨ “Een gast brengt altyd vreugde aan is't niet by't komen, dan by 't gaan” Unknown –translates roughly “A guest brings always joy in is not by the coming, then by the going” (also in a hotel on a tapestry on the wall) [Cape Town, South Africa]

Until I write again, “Cheers!”

Tastes of Barcelona

2008-03-08T11:08:00.008-05:00

I must print a correction--the Irish were not really Irish but Scottish with a team named "The Celts". It was the green t-shirts that threw me off. I assumed the Irish had the monopoly on green and clovers but that has proven to be wrong. A lesson learned.

The conference was a conference where you get cool freebies that will sit in the closet for a good year and maybe a few can pass off as gifts to the amigos and familia (to name a few of my prizes--your strobe light ball, stress squeezers in hearts and animals, free pens, pedometers, key chain compass, calculator and potential to when a Wii). There was useful information and I am glad they send you the slides because it cuts down on the notes you have to take and unfortunately I have a little problem that has followed me through college on; I tend to sleep in lectures and presentations especially in low lighting. It is like a rare form of narcolepsy. The funny thing is that I pick up tidbits in the midst and can pass off like I know.

In other news, there was a dinner with co-workers who attended the trip--plenty of Sangria and paella to go around. As part of the festivities, there was an interesting activity where we had to give a fun fact about ourselves beforehand and then we each had to guess who it belonged to. You just don't know people. We had someone that swam with piranhas, a wanna-be FBI agent, an interviewee with Barnum and Bailey Circus, a ordained minister that conducted two weddings, a rocker who engaged 2000 people, a beauty queen, dancer who one three talent shows and a music video star.

Only other comment on the conference is the hilarity of the presentations. Every so often you get organized and engaging, but more often than not you get rambling, monotone, and minute lettering. I can critique mercilessly because I am not presenting. How can the skills not have been learned? A message is nothing if it is indecipherable. There are diagrams that look like abstract art and who knows what they represent. "Hello!" there are people in the back who would like to see; if you say we didn't need to read the slide, WHY INCLUDE IT? Ok, enough of my soapbox, I have other things to report.

During my off day and last day in el cuidade Barcelona, I took a trip to Montserrat where there is a Basilica, monk colony, and the Black Madonna. It is an enchanting place and a wonderful place to do a retreat (refer to the slideshow). You go up the mountain by cable or train (I went up by cable and came down by train) providing beautiful Kodak moments. I wanted to film the mass and the monks chanting but unfortunately it was not allowed.

It is quite easy to get around the city and the outskirts by metro and train. The metro in the city comes every 3 min. no matter the line! (What do you think about that D.C. Metro riders?) Entering the city again, I decided to try and see the Guell Park, a public park designed by Antonio Gaudi who is renowned and has strong architectural influence in Barcelona. He is all about the waves.

A must-do suggestion: You must have the crema catalona, which is an orange crème brûlèe, if you come to Barcelona (or find the recipe)--it is divine.

Breath-Taking Art

2008-03-03T21:26:00.002-05:00

Hola! Arriving into the airport of a city one has never seen is always an exhilarating experience. Each city affects the senses uniquely with different smells, sights, sounds, tastes and feels. When I walked out the airport and saw the palm trees it reminded me of walking out the airport in Florida with the breeziness although the whiffs of cigarettes in and out of the airport reminded me of my trip to Italy where non-smoking laws are non-existent. The cab driver was an elderly man who was quite flattering and kept asking about my relationship status (this I am assuming by hand gestures and limited understanding of Spanish).

This is Europe, where the falling dollar (poor currency) gives Americans the distinct feeling of limited spending power. I have graced this land with my presence (don't you love the vanity) to attend the EuroMeeting for the Drug Information Association. My hotel is along a main thoroughfare, La Rambla, which at night is brimming with activity. The first night there were groups of drunk singing Irish men along the street who were having a good “craic” (look it up). Also along the way, there was living and breathing art. It is always amazing the creativity that humanity exhibits and all that we can do with our bodies. There were the statues as still as concrete. The evil gargoyle or bat scared the heck out of me. It went still and folded several minutes and POW! came fully stretched.

There were other interesting sites (animal stalls with chickens, ducks, pigeons, canaries, rabbits, gerbils, and such in the city--I guess they like their little pets) to see but tired was I. Jet lag began its decent with the wonderful anticipation of waking up in the middle of the night, which is right when I am writing this blog. Don't you love it!